What are chemical peels?
A chemical peel is a medical-aesthetic procedure that involves the controlled application of dermal acids to the skin to produce a chemical exfoliation of its superficial or intermediate layers. This process removes damaged, dead cells, stimulates cellular renewal and activates the synthesis of new collagen and elastin.
The result is skin with improved texture, a more even tone, reduced dark spots and greater radiance. The degree of renewal and the intensity of the outcome depend on the concentration and type of acid used, the depth of penetration and the number of layers applied. Dr. Jenny Ortega De La Rosa designs each peel protocol individually, according to the patient's phototype, primary concerns and the time of year.
Before a medium or deep peel it is essential to prepare the skin with retinol and/or depigmenting agents for 2–4 weeks. This preparation improves the uniformity of the result and reduces the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, particularly in darker skin types.
How do chemical peels work?
To understand why a peel renews the skin it helps to look at what happens beneath the surface. The applied acid causes a controlled chemical exfoliation: it systematically breaks the bonds between the superficial cells of the epidermis (and even part of the dermis, depending on depth) and promotes their shedding. The skin responds to this stimulus by activating its own repair process.
That process has several complementary effects. First, cellular turnover renewal: by removing the damaged layers, the new cells that replace them migrate in a more organised manner, with better texture and a more even tone. Second, pigment redistribution: the acid helps disperse the melanin accumulations that form dark spots, so tone becomes progressively more uniform over successive sessions. Third, in deeper peels, the stimulus reaches the dermis and activates fibroblasts that produce new collagen and elastin, contributing to improved firmness and softer fine lines.
The deeper the acid penetrates, the greater the renewal potential — but also the longer the recovery and the more demanding the aftercare. Depth is not chosen for “intensity” alone; it is chosen for the indication: the concern being treated, the phototype and the recovery time each patient can manage. All of this is defined at the consultation.
It is important to understand that the result of a peel is progressive and, for many indications (such as melasma or texture), depends on a multi-session protocol combined with a good home maintenance routine. The skin’s response varies from person to person and is assessed at the consultation.
Mechanism of action by acid type
Different acids achieve exfoliation through distinct mechanisms. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic and mandelic acid work primarily by dissolving the intercellular cement between epidermal cells. Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) such as salicylic acid are lipophilic, allowing them to penetrate sebaceous follicles and act from within the pore. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) acts by precipitating epidermal proteins, producing a more profound and visible renewal effect. Understanding these differences is what allows a well-trained practitioner to match the acid to the indication.
Types of chemical peels
Peels are classified by depth of action, which determines the type of acid used and the expected recovery time:
Another useful way to understand peels is by the acid used, since each has a distinct profile. The table below summarises the most commonly used acids in orientative terms. This is not a self-prescribing guide: the acid, concentration and number of layers are determined by Dr. Jenny at the consultation, based on your skin.
| Acid | Type / Depth | Typical indications | Key considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Glycolic (AHA) Widely used | Superficial | Radiance, texture, pores, dull skin | Small molecule, fast penetration; neutralised by time |
| Mandelic (AHA) | Superficial | Sensitive skin, darker phototypes, dark spots, acne | Gentler, more progressive action; lower irritation risk |
| Salicylic (BHA) | Superficial | Oily skin, acne, enlarged pores, blackheads | Lipophilic: acts inside the pore; sebum-regulating effect |
| Lactic (AHA) | Superficial | Hydration, radiance, dry or sensitive skin | Among the gentlest; good tolerability |
| TCA (trichloroacetic) | Medium (varies with %) | Sun spots, irregular texture, fine lines, scars | Pre-treatment preparation required; visible peeling for several days |
| Jessner solution | Medium | Sun damage, hyperpigmentation, acne; often combined with TCA | Blend of several acids; applied in controlled layers |
Benefits of chemical peels
Chemical peels offer a broad range of skin benefits when correctly indicated and performed by a trained medical professional. The most consistent outcomes include:
- Improved skin radiance and luminosity — even after a single superficial session, the complexion looks more even and refreshed.
- Reduction of dark spots and pigmentation — progressive improvement in sun spots, post-acne marks and superficial melasma with appropriate protocols.
- Smoother skin texture — removal of the stratum corneum and stimulation of fresh cell turnover visibly refines the skin surface.
- Reduced pore appearance — particularly with BHA peels, which address sebum accumulation inside the follicle.
- Collagen stimulation and firming — medium and deep peels trigger a wound-healing response that promotes new collagen production in the dermis.
- Fine line softening — particularly with medium-depth peels targeting superficial rhytides and early signs of photoageing.
- Acne improvement and scar reduction — superficial BHA peels help control active acne; medium peels progressively soften superficial acne scarring.
Who is a candidate? (and when NOT)
A chemical peel is not a one-size-fits-all treatment: what makes it safe and effective is proper patient selection. As a general guide, you are a good candidate if you identify with any of the following profiles:
- You have dark spots, sun damage or uneven skin tone and want a medical treatment to achieve a more uniform complexion.
- Your skin looks dull, has rough texture or visible pores and you are seeking renewed radiance.
- You have superficial acne scars or marks, or oily, acne-prone skin with comedones.
- You want a skin maintenance plan, either standalone or combined with other treatments.
- You are prepared to follow aftercare instructions, especially strict daily sun protection.
When a peel is not the best option. A chemical peel is postponed or ruled out — and an alternative is sought — in several situations: during pregnancy and breastfeeding; if you have taken isotretinoin in the past several months; in the presence of active herpes or active skin infections in the treatment area; if you have open wounds, dermatitis or eczema on the face; or if you will not be able to avoid sun exposure during the recovery period. For darker phototypes (IV–VI) deeper peels are indicated with caution and pre-treatment preparation given the risk of hyperpigmentation. And when the concern is a marked wrinkle or significant laxity, a peel alone will not resolve it — in those cases other options should be evaluated. The evaluation consultation exists precisely to distinguish these scenarios and avoid recommending a peel when it is not appropriate.
Enquire about chemical peels
We assess your skin type and design the most suitable peel protocol for your goals.
Ask on WhatsAppThe procedure, step by step
A chemical peel session lasts between 30 and 45 minutes. The procedure varies according to the depth of the prescribed peel:
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1
Assessment and pre-treatment preparation Skin type, phototype and goals are evaluated. For medium or deep peels, a 2–4 week preparation protocol with retinol and/or depigmenting agents is prescribed to homogenise the skin's response.
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2
Cleansing and degreasing The face is thoroughly cleansed with a specific solution to remove all traces of oil or cosmetics that could interfere with the uniform penetration of the acid.
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3
Acid application The acid is applied evenly with a brush or gauze, layer by layer, while monitoring contact time and the skin's response (erythema, frosting). It is neutralised at the appropriate moment according to the acid type.
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4
Immediate aftercare A moisturiser and sunscreen are applied at the end of the session. A post-peel aftercare protocol is provided: intensive hydration, strict sun protection and avoidance of direct sun exposure during the peeling phase.
After any chemical peel, SPF 50+ sunscreen every day without exception is mandatory. Post-peel skin is more vulnerable to UV radiation and may develop hyperpigmentation if not adequately protected.
Aftercare and recovery
A significant part of the peel result depends on what happens after the session. Recovery varies considerably by depth: a superficial peel usually allows a return to normal routine the same day, while a medium or deep peel involves several days of peeling and more specific care. What to expect at each level is explained at the consultation before you begin.
What to expect by depth
- Superficial: mild redness and tightness that resolve within hours or 1–2 days. Visible flaking is usually absent.
- Medium: redness, a sensation of tight skin and peeling that typically lasts 5–7 days. It is worth planning around important social commitments.
- Deep: longer recovery of approximately 10–14 days, with marked peeling and specific care requirements. Greater preparation and follow-up are needed.
Recovery recommendations
- SPF 50+ sunscreen every day, reapplied regularly, and avoid direct sun exposure during the peeling phase.
- Do not pick or rub peeling skin: allow it to shed naturally to minimise the risk of marks and post-inflammatory pigmentation.
- Intensive hydration with the recommended products; gentle cleansing, with no exfoliants or home acid treatments until cleared by the doctor.
- Discontinue retinoids, home AHAs/BHAs and facial treatments or hair removal in the area until advised otherwise.
- Avoid intense heat, saunas, swimming pools and heavy exercise during the first days after medium or deep peels.
- Wear makeup only once the skin is fully consolidated, according to the type of peel performed.
Complications are uncommon when a peel is correctly indicated and properly cared for. Even so, if you experience intense or persistent burning, blistering, signs of infection (growing redness, warmth, discharge or pus), or the appearance of new dark patches, contact the clinic. Recovery monitoring is included in the treatment and allows any concerns to be addressed promptly.
Chemical peels vs. other options
Chemical peels do not compete with other skin treatments — they often complement them within the same plan. Understanding what each technique does best helps set realistic expectations and make informed decisions. The following is an honest, orientative comparison:
| Option | Best suited for | Recovery |
|---|---|---|
| Chemical peel | Dark spots, uneven tone, texture, pores, radiance and fine lines | None to several days depending on depth |
| Microneedling | Texture, acne scars and firmness through mechanical collagen stimulation | Brief redness, 1–3 days |
| Botulinum Toxin | Dynamic expression lines (frown, forehead, crow’s feet) | Virtually none |
| Hyaluronic acid | Volume loss and deep creases; does not act on spots or texture | Minimal |
| Facial cleansing | Deep hygiene and comedone extraction; does not renew or depigment | None |
In practice, a comprehensive skin plan may combine a peel for tone and texture with other treatments for volume or expression lines. What is appropriate for your case — and in what sequence — is defined at the evaluation consultation.
Cost of chemical peels in Buenos Aires
- Skin assessment and consultation included
- Personalised acid selection and protocol
- Pre-peel preparation when indicated
- Post-peel aftercare instructions included
- Recovery monitoring and follow-up
Superficial peels are a well-suited option for ongoing maintenance of radiance and skin texture. A protocol of 4 monthly superficial peel sessions is coordinated and defined at the initial evaluation consultation.
Buenos Aires offers a high level of medical care and access to experienced practitioners, making it an increasingly sought-after destination for aesthetic treatments. The valuation consultation is the moment to assess your specific case, define the treatment plan and arrange all the details.
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View in Treatments →Frequently asked questions about chemical peels
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